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Archive for the ‘Puppy Training’ Category

Biting the Hand that Feeds You

Monday, March 12th, 2012


Biting the hand that feeds you usually refers to harming someone who is helping you. The same meaning applies to a dog who bites when you or someone else is trying to help it.

Aggression in a pet dog is a serious problem that must be handled before you or someone else is bitten by your pet. Adults as well as children become frightened if an angry dog suddenly lunges at them. And an aggressive dog who goes too far is a lawsuit waiting to happen.

If you have an aggressive dog, the first thing you should do is make an appointment with your veterinarian to rule out any physical causes for the aggression. If a dog is in pain or a lot of discomfort, it may strike out at you and other people and act mean and irritable. You need to be sure that your dog is physically okay before doing anything about its aggression.

Obedience training is essential for dogs. They need it for socialization and to prevent outbreaks of aggression. Prevention is key, since correcting bad behavior is ten times as hard once aggressive behavior is locked into your dog’s brain.

Aggression can be caused by many things, and identifying the cause is the key to correcting the problem. You must first recognize that your dog has a problem in order to help it before a serious incident occurs. By then it is too late.

There are different types of dog aggression:

There is general aggression directed towards you or other dogs;

A chained reaction stems from fear and territorial aggression as a result of being chained up and being threatened by another dog;

Possession aggression is demonstrated when a dog refuses to share a toy for example.

There are other types of dog aggression, in addition to those listed above:

Cage Rage is often seen when a dog has been severely neglected, as many puppies are who have been bred in puppy mills. After spending months, perhaps years in a cage by itself, or even with other dogs, a dog will begin to see the cage as their territory, defending it when necessary.

Even worse, a caged dog becomes a trapped and cornered dog. In a confrontational situation, a dog no longer has a flight option, and fighting is the only choice left.

Some dogs caged in animal shelters may also demonstrate cage rage. They may not act aggressive, but will display an unruly hyperactivity that discourages potential adopters who believe the dog will be like that all the time. Usually this type of behavior is only temporary and resolves itself as the dog gains its freedom again and is no longer caged up all day.

Dominance aggression is when members of a pack, whether dog to dog, or dog to human, struggle for top position in the pack hierarchy, fighting for the role of alpha dog.

As a dog owner it’s your responsibility to hold the leadership position as the “alpha dog” and immediately correct your pet if it displays actions similar to biting the hand that feeds them. If you do not act confident in your position, you could find yourself being outsmarted by your dog, causing serious behavior problems as your dog grows older.

If you find yourself clashing with your dog over who’s in command, there are a few things you need to start doing immediately:
(1) Enroll your dog in a good obedience class;
(2) When walking through doors, be first in line and first up any stairs you encounter;
(3) Be first getting into and out of the car;
(4) Don’t let your dog decide when to be petted, ignore its pushy nose;
(5) Don’t let your dog up on your bed and don’t place yourself under it – height is a leadership position;
(6) Make your dog work for what it wants. If your dog is hungry or wants water, make it sit first. Don’t pass out treats without a reason. Make your dog beg, sit or obey some other command before offering a treat.

Aggression breeds aggression. Punishment almost always makes the problem worse. Kindness, firmness, and consistency are the most successful ways to handle aggression in any dog.

Your goal should be to have the most loving and caring companion possible and avoid having your pet tagged with the euphemism “a dog that bites the hand that feeds it.” Only you can make that happen.

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Dogs Urinating on Your Lawn

Monday, December 12th, 2011


Is your grass turning yellow because dogs are urinating on your lawn?

Perhaps you’ve had the unpleasant experience of a neighbor cursing you because your dog just urinated on his freshly manicured lawn. Or maybe it’s your own lawn that’s showing the effects from your dog’s urine. We can excuse our pet dogs for many of their little eccentricities, but when the result of your beloved dog urinating on your lawn is an unsightly mosaic of brown and green, it’s time to do something about it. Dog urine contains a high concentration of nitrogen and can leave unsightly brown “doggy spots” on your lawn. The urine is absorbed into the soil, which damages the roots of the grass, and the result is a patchwork of brown spots and green lawn. This is a frustrating problem for many homeowners, but there are some preventative steps you can take to keep your lawn green.

One alternative for preventing doggy urine spots is to plant a urine-resistant grass, such as fescue or ryegrass. These grasses are not as affected by dog urine as is Kentucky Bluegrass, for example. Another preventive measure you can take is to avoid using lawn fertilizers with nitrogen as an ingredient. If the fertilizer has nitrogen in it, your lawn will be getting a double dose wherever your dog urinates. What I have done at times is to use a hose and immediately flood the area where my dog has just urinated. This dilutes the nitrogen and spreads it over my yard so it’s not as concentrated in one area. This usually prevents the grass from turning brown.

Another treatment I have used and found to be very effective is Lawn Aid from Dogs Health. I’ve been giving it to my dog all this past year here in the desert where we have green grass all year-round (that is if you water the lawn every day during the triple digit temperatures).

Lawn Aid balances my dog’s urine pH and helps prevent discoloration of the grass. It’s a combination of Cranberry, Yucca, DL-Methionine and Brewer’s Yeast and it helps keep my grass green all year long. The Cranberry Extract also helps support good urinary tract health in my dog.

Urine, when produced as a waste product in animals, primarily removes excess nitrogen from the body via the kidneys. Nitrogen waste products are the result of protein breakdown through normal bodily processes. Dogs have a considerable protein requirement, and their urine volume varies due to the dog’s size and its metabolism. Urine becomes a serious problem for lawns because it hits the grass all at once, acting like a liquid fertilizer.

Most types of grass can handle dogs urinating on the lawn because small amounts of nitrogen as not as damaging as a heavy, sudden dose of fertilizer. Female dogs are more likely to squat when urinating and are the primary culprits of lawn damage since they will urinate anywhere on a lawn and usually all at once. The result is a single nitrogen dump concentrated on a small patch of grass. The brown spot that results often has a green ring around the perimeter. The nitrogen overload at the center causes the burn. This characteristic brown spot – green ring pattern has been called “female dog spot disease”.

You may live in a part of the country where you have green grass for only a few months out of the year and your lawn turns brown or is covered with snow most of the winter. If that is the case you may want to try Lawn Aid before summer ends, but for those of us who live in temperate climates, Lawn Aid comes in very handy all year-round.

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A Houseful of Dogs

Monday, August 8th, 2011


A houseful of dogs is a bit of heaven for some people and a huge pain for others.

Maybe one dog just isn’t enough for you. Having one dog is great, but having more than one can be marvelous! However, the challenges are numerous and a multi-dog home can have you pulling your hair out over the smallest incident. Many owners of multiple dogs find that having more than one dog in the home makes their life complete, and more interesting.

Meeting your new dog
The first meeting between your current pet dog and a new one could set the nature of their relationship. You want the dogs to get along well together; to play with one another and not quarrel over who’s “top dog”. If it’s possible, try to have the dog’s first meeting take place in a neutral setting, away from your home. If you decide to adopt from a shelter, ask if you can bring your dog in to meet any potential new dog before going forward with the adoption. It’s important to see if there are any strong feelings of hostility between the animals.

Bringing home two puppies
This can be a huge challenge – training, house-breaking, and all the other myriad chores and duties that go along with raising a new puppy; in this case it would be like raising twins.

If you do decide to adopt two puppies at the same time, it’s a good idea to crate them together when you’re not around. Crating them is also a good idea when you need to do one-on-one training with each puppy. You can leave one crated while working with the other.
It’s a very smart idea to buy two of everything the puppies will need; two collars, two leashes, and especially two beds and blankets. They may be agreeable to sharing a bed and blanket, and even toys at this point in their lives, but that will probably change as they grow older and larger.

One-on-One time
Every dog in your home needs to feel special. Find opportunities to spend some one-on-one time with each of your dogs. Whether they are puppies or adult dogs, they need individual training sessions in order for the training to reinforce itself in their brains. They also need attention from you without having to compete for that attention with another dog. Otherwise your dogs will become reliant upon on each other instead of you, and you could find yourself being relegated to just a person who feeds them and gives them the treats they love.

If you have two young adult dogs, take one dog out for a walk or playtime, then take the other one out separately too. Taking turns with training will allow your dogs to bond closer with you and see you as the master of the house and their lives.

Dog disputes
If you have more than one dog, it’s inevitable that at some point they will begin fighting with each other. Most of the fights that occur between dogs living in the same household are not serious fights, and generally are over very quickly. The most common cause of these little scraps is rank: the dogs need to work out who comes first between them. Unless both dogs are uncommonly submissive, these types of dog fights are going to be inevitable.

You can keep these little spats from becoming serious by neutering male dogs. Raging hormones are a huge factor in a dog’s aggressiveness toward other dogs. You must reinforce the pack order: you come first, then the other humans in your home, and then the houseful of dogs, in whichever order they have established between themselves.

Feeding Times
You should feed both dogs at the same time of day, but still cater to the alpha dog of the two by putting his food down first. As long as both dogs are fed the same food, and finish their meal about the same time, there shouldn’t be any problems. Each dog needs its own food dish, but will usually share a common water bowl. If one of the dogs finishes first and tries to eat the other dog’s food you’ll need to feed them separately, either in different rooms or at different times.

I once had a friend who was raising six dogs all at the same time. Talk about a houseful of dogs! Different breeds, different ages, and vastly different personalities. She had no time for anything else so it was a good thing that her children were all grown up and lived away from home.

I’m curious to hear from people who have raised two or three, or more dogs at the same time. What was it like and would you do it again?

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Caring For New Puppies

Tuesday, January 4th, 2011


Your female dog has just given birth to a litter of pups and you’re glad that ordeal is over. But wait! Now comes your part of the job – caring for new puppies.

The mother will be good and ready for some food and water. Bring both dishes to the whelping box, as she won’t want to leave her newborn puppies. Don’t set the dishes on the floor inside the whelping box because the puppies could crawl into them and drown at this stage. Either hang the dishes on one side of the whelping box or give her food and water at least every 2-3 hours to start. She should be taken outside on a frequent and regular basis to do her duties.

You’ll find that within 2-3 days, the mother’s appetite will considerably increase to as much as 2-4 times her pre-pregnancy intake. She will need a constant supply of a high quality puppy food and plenty of water to maintain her weight and health while feeding her puppies. Don’t use puppy formulas marked for larger breeds because they are generally lower in protein, fat, and minerals. Ideally, she should weigh the same at the time of weaning as she did when she was bred.

Healthy puppies are plump and vigorous. They should nurse approximately every 2 hours. If they nurse until their stomachs are round and they sleep quietly, then they are getting enough nourishment. If they cry and move around a lot, this indicates that they are not eating enough. If their stomachs appear larger but they are restless and crying, it could be because they are swallowing air while nursing and that makes their little tummies look bigger.

Puppies may lose some weight in the first 24 hours after birth, but after that their weight should increase steadily. A good rule of thumb is that their weight should double in the first 7-10 days of their life.

Before, during, and after nursing, the mother will lick their stomachs and the areas around their anuses and sexual organs to help stimulate the puppies to urinate and defecate. She will continue to do this for 2-3 weeks.

Weigh the puppies daily for the first 2 weeks; after that at least once a week. A food scale works well for weighing the puppies. If they fail to gain weight it is often the first sign of illness.

After the puppies reach about 3 weeks of age, they will begin to imitate their mother’s eating and drinking habits. It is now safe to place a shallow water dish where the puppies will always have access to fresh, clean water. When they reach 3½ weeks of age, you can start feeding them soft puppy food.

To prepare food for the puppies, put 2 cups of dry puppy food in a blender and add 12 ounces of milk, then fill the rest of the blender with hot water. Blend until the dry puppy food has the consistency of a baby’s cereal. This will feed 6-8 medium-sized puppies. Feed the puppies 3-4 meals a day to start. Each week, increase the amount of food, and decrease the amount of milk and water you add and the amount of time you blend the ingredients. By 7 weeks of age, the puppies should be eating dry food.

By the time the puppies are 6½-7 weeks of age, they should be fully weaned from their mother’s milk, be eating dry food, and drinking water on their own. If you don’t rush the weaning, the mother will naturally start decreasing milk production as the puppies increase their intake of solid food.

The whelping box should be cleaned at least once a day at this stage, and 2-3 times a day as the puppies begin eating solids and the mother stops cleaning up after them. Put down several layers of newspaper and then stretch a blanket over the newspaper. The blanket should be big enough to fit under all 4 sides of the box to keep the puppies from becoming lost under the blanket.

The puppies dewclaws should be removed between 2-4 days after birth, and their tails docked at the same time if you choose to have this procedure done. Your veterinarian will perform these procedures on the puppies. Once the puppies are finished at the vet and are put back with their mother, they will nurse and then sleep. Don’t be alarmed when the puppies twitch and jerk while sleeping. This helps with the development of their nerves and muscles.

They will be crawling well in 7-14 days; they’ll walk a little wobbly by the 15th day, and walk normally by the 21st day. By 4 weeks of age, they’ll be following each other all over the house.

They will begin to learn how to play with each other and learn how to restrain their biting. If a puppy bites a littermate too hard, the littermate will yelp and stop playing. But if the puppy is allowed to bite humans, it will not learn to inhibit its bites which will be a major problem when the puppy reaches adulthood.

If you plan to keep all the puppies, you’ll have a lot of work cut out for you. If you plan on selling or giving away some or all of the pups, be sure they are vaccinated, and have all their necessary shots before they leave your home. Be sure they are not separated from their mother before they are 8-10 weeks old.

Puppies are beautiful little animals, no matter what breed they are. The joy of raising a puppy and having it bond to you and your family is an experience that can fill your life with absolute joy, happiness, and also, a little frustration when the puppy begins chewing on your shoes or clothes and urinating on your good rug or carpet. This is the time to practice patience, patience, and more patience!

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Dogs As Christmas Gifts

Friday, December 10th, 2010


You’re at the pet store and you see the perfect Christmas gift – a beautiful, cuddly little puppy adorned with a big red bow – the ideal present for someone you love. But stop for a moment and consider that while a dog as a Christmas gift may seem like an irresistible gift, and one that the intended recipient will surely love and appreciate, it actually can be a very bad idea.

There are good reasons to avoid giving a new puppy or dog as a present. Are you certain the person really wants a new dog? If they do, what kind of dog is going to be best for their life style – a Golden Retriever with it’s people loving personality? A German Shepherd to guard the house? A big dog? A little dog? There are many things you really need to consider before gifting someone with a puppy or dog.

Two good reasons why giving a dog for Christmas is a bad idea:

(1) You need to ask yourself is, does this person even want a dog? Is the intended recipient of your gift actually ready for a dog? If the person is a dog lover, but doesn’t have a dog, there’s probably a good reason why. If he or she already owns a dog, maybe it’s not the appropriate time to add another dog to their family. You should be aware of how the gift recipient really feels about dog ownership.

(2) The gift of a new dog or puppy is something many kids dream about. Unfortunately, most children don’t realize that dog ownership comes with a lot of responsibility. If a child comes to the conclusion that caring for the dog is too much, the responsibility will ultimately transfer to the parents. If you are not the child’s parent, then you definitely should not give that child a new dog unless the parents are in agreement that it would make a great gift. If you are a parent of the child, then getting a dog becomes a family decision. If it’s your child, you should have a parent-to-child talk about the responsibilities involved in raising and caring for a puppy who soon grows into an adult dog.

If the receiver of the gift is truly open to welcoming a new dog into their home, there are still some important things to consider. Dogs given as gifts to kids on Christmas are often caught up in all the hustle and bustle of the season, and sadly, they may be soon forgotten, ignored like new toys and games.

If someone you care about is an adult and has indicated an interest in becoming a dog owner, you may want to give them a book about dog ownership as a gift. Use that as an opportunity to discuss whether or not they really want a pet dog, then if the answer is yes, make future plans to go with them to pick out their new dog or puppy. If the future owner of the dog is included in the decision process, it will be in everyone’s favor.

Make this Christmas a very merry one for the one you want to give the gift to, and also for the dog who deserves a loving, happy home where he or she is appreciated and wanted.

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